It's been three weeks of driving through Europe so far.
We are hiring a petrol Toyota Townace NOAH (and therefore nicknamed him NOAH!) from Wicked Campers in a bright graffiti/mural along the theme of PiL - Public Image Limited. We get a lot of stares! We approached a police road block yesterday and they all just stared at us and forgot to pull us over!
We are driving on the right in a right-hand-drive (UK) car which makes it extra challenging. Pulling out onto a highway or a roundabout requires extra neck skills. One of the scariest challenges is watching out for pedestrians who just walk out onto a cross walk without looking as they always have the right of way. You wouldn't dare do that in Australia. You actually have to brake hard for them here. It all just needs a higher level of alertness.
The aircon has handled the 39c days well. The economy is quite good at 11.5km/litre. The fuel is AUD $2.10 a litre though!
There are heaps of trucks on the highway more than I have ever seen but it is a orderly system where they will stick to the right which is the slow lane. Even slow cars stick to the right so that the fast traffic can do the speed limit which is 130 km/h (!) - there is absolutely no undertaking like in Perth - it just shows how silly some Perth drivers are! 😉
Interchanges seem complex and the merging can be quite stressful sometimes especially because I am driving on the right-hand side of the car.
I think it would be quite stressful following a map I am quite thankful for the GPS. The van is going good and keeps up with the traffic well. There are constant roundabouts - it seems to be the way to intersect minor and major roads. Sometimes the scenery is so idyllic that we want to stop to take a photo every 10 seconds.
We are now avoiding toll roads so the distance equates to a longer time and careful planning needs to be taken. It is peak season and school holiday time and France is the most visited country in the world, so everything is extra busy.
I'm enjoying the freshly made baguettes that Shamara makes with cured meats and interesting cheeses. With the high temperatures on most days, we are getting through about 6 liters of water per day. 'Careful planning kills magic' so we are keeping our options open as we travel.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
Braving it in Barcelona
what a roller coaster ride we had when we arrived in Barcelona!
Land at 12:30pm and weren't allowed to get off the plane for about 15 mins (felt like an hour!). We kept entertained watching our bags come off the plane. Eventually we ourselves were unloaded onto a bus which seemed to drive around aimlessly and then deposited us at doors which soon after we entered we saw backed up 100s of people - as far as the eye could see! Possibly almost 2009 people banked up at any given time! A strike we later heard.
Now we were on a small flight so we knew this wasn't jus tour fellow passengers. Instructions were being yelled out in Spanish only but our lessons hadn't wuite covered the rapid fire delivery of these!!
People were being sent back from the queue they'd tried to join (EU only) and were needing to get to the back of the line as there didn't seem to be any differentiation. All in the same boat!, there was shameless queue jumping, people were crying as they were missing transfers etc (one lady was getting married on a cruise ship sailing in 4 hours and the rest of her family was already on it!)
It took us 2 hours in that queue to be processed.
Then came the drama of finding out bags. By this stage so many flights had landed that none of the screens at the conveyor belts had our flight number on them. So here we were 100s of confused people wandering around looking for our luggage - lost, upset, tearful. It was like being back at the emergency evacuation centre. We walked and walked round and round peering hopefully at the various piles of bags. There was no one manning the information desk and the few staff that were around were not responding to queries.
Eventually we found our bags and I can't even begin to describe my joy!
So now we could start a hassle free trip to our van hire place right? Wrong! Because then began the drama of train travel with a man who doesn't get detailed info and never asks for directions or help! After hopping on and off ra done trains and backtracking until I eas nearly in tears (no food for 6 hours can do that to me!). And then I had a "I am in Spain" moment when a trio of musicians (double base, piano accordion and trumpet) hopped on to our train and started playing ragtime and pop. So cool! My first smile for the day! 😊
We eventually found our way to the Wicked depot and the relief when I saw that it didn't have anything overly offensive (the guy an Aussie called Mick) actually offered to tape over one bit as he knew my views on Wicked signage :).
A quick trip to Carrefour (so huge I was afraid of getting lost!) to buy supplies and sheets and $60 we were off and away.
Lucky to be invitees to stay with a delightful Spanish couple Antonio and Guillerma (friends of a friend in WA). Not a word of enough ("thank you very much" and "how are you wa the extent of Fuillerma's!) and so the little Spanish we have learnt came into good use!
The van is right hand drive and driving on the right side of the road is doing Ben's head in and making me feel very vulnerable!!
Ben will write more about the driving experience when we have more Internet connection. In Madrid at the moment and loving it!!
Land at 12:30pm and weren't allowed to get off the plane for about 15 mins (felt like an hour!). We kept entertained watching our bags come off the plane. Eventually we ourselves were unloaded onto a bus which seemed to drive around aimlessly and then deposited us at doors which soon after we entered we saw backed up 100s of people - as far as the eye could see! Possibly almost 2009 people banked up at any given time! A strike we later heard.
Now we were on a small flight so we knew this wasn't jus tour fellow passengers. Instructions were being yelled out in Spanish only but our lessons hadn't wuite covered the rapid fire delivery of these!!
People were being sent back from the queue they'd tried to join (EU only) and were needing to get to the back of the line as there didn't seem to be any differentiation. All in the same boat!, there was shameless queue jumping, people were crying as they were missing transfers etc (one lady was getting married on a cruise ship sailing in 4 hours and the rest of her family was already on it!)
It took us 2 hours in that queue to be processed.
Then came the drama of finding out bags. By this stage so many flights had landed that none of the screens at the conveyor belts had our flight number on them. So here we were 100s of confused people wandering around looking for our luggage - lost, upset, tearful. It was like being back at the emergency evacuation centre. We walked and walked round and round peering hopefully at the various piles of bags. There was no one manning the information desk and the few staff that were around were not responding to queries.
Eventually we found our bags and I can't even begin to describe my joy!
So now we could start a hassle free trip to our van hire place right? Wrong! Because then began the drama of train travel with a man who doesn't get detailed info and never asks for directions or help! After hopping on and off ra done trains and backtracking until I eas nearly in tears (no food for 6 hours can do that to me!). And then I had a "I am in Spain" moment when a trio of musicians (double base, piano accordion and trumpet) hopped on to our train and started playing ragtime and pop. So cool! My first smile for the day! 😊
We eventually found our way to the Wicked depot and the relief when I saw that it didn't have anything overly offensive (the guy an Aussie called Mick) actually offered to tape over one bit as he knew my views on Wicked signage :).
A quick trip to Carrefour (so huge I was afraid of getting lost!) to buy supplies and sheets and $60 we were off and away.
Lucky to be invitees to stay with a delightful Spanish couple Antonio and Guillerma (friends of a friend in WA). Not a word of enough ("thank you very much" and "how are you wa the extent of Fuillerma's!) and so the little Spanish we have learnt came into good use!
The van is right hand drive and driving on the right side of the road is doing Ben's head in and making me feel very vulnerable!!
Ben will write more about the driving experience when we have more Internet connection. In Madrid at the moment and loving it!!
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Travelling with Chooks
We travelled today from Marrakech to El-Jedida, a distance of 180km by bus and it took us 4.5 hours! Should have been straightforward right? Wrong! Nothing is ever simple in the 'East'. But it is always guaranteed to give you a story to tell!
We popped in to the bus station in Marrakech a couple of days prior to work out how we go about it and to potentially pre-book a ticket. After being accosted at every turn by touts (who get a commission from the company they talk you into travelling with) we finally saw a window advertising our destination. This is easy we thought - but no cos this was the only window without a ticket seller at it! Then we went to the CTM counter (a reputable bus agency) but as they don't run buses to EJ the guy just pointed us back to the relevant window. Eventually we were able to work out that we ant prebook but have to turn up on the day of travel and get s seat on the next available bus.
So we arrive early to catch the 8:30am bus we'd been told about, run the entire gamut of touts again only to learn that no, only a 9:30am bus is being run today!
So we buy our tickets (a cheap 50dh each - abt $7) are shown to a bus, hand over our pack to an old man to load it in the hold and of course pay him for the privilege 😉 and we get on the bus to wait! And wait! And wait!
But we don't wait all bored - we have a regular stream of sales people board the bus selling tissue packets, jewellery and even shoes (memories of bus and train travel in Sri lanka and other parts of SE Asia!) Then a man gets on and starts holding forth passionately about something and Ben thought he was the driver giving us a safety demo! 😂 when he started handing something out Ben thought it was wet wipes as part of our travel experience!! But no he was selling some concoction that would make you feel so much better! Next up was someone selling a Vicks type cream which Ben bought!
Bus is half full so we keep making mini stops to pick up travellers on the way. We are the only 'tourists' on here so are a source of much entertainment and are given sidelong glances to full blown stares. There's no aircon but the roof vents are open and it's enough to cool us down when the bus is on the move.
There's a very long stop near a huge markets where the main commodity seems to be bales of hay. This sort of stop is where you would usually stretch your legs and buy something to eat and drink ... But it is Ramadan so that's not an option. By this stage both Ben and I are getting headaches - no breakfast and only surreptitious sips of water. Another sales man promising to turn your lungs from black and toxic to clean and pink passed around photos and does a full demo that was a bit like magic! Finally we load on a few market goers along with their produce - one woman even had a clutch of live chickens (what is the collective name for about 6 chooks who've been tied together in such a way that you can just grab the bit of rope and lift the whole lot up - not nice for that chooks but easy for the owner!). In they went into the hold with our bags!!
Hot and hungry though we were, the life and moments we were driving past were fascinating and it kept us entertained. The highlight was cuddling our neighbour's baby for about an hour. Anwar was an adorable 6 month old and was so chill - probably glad to be getting some attention and seemed fascinated by my voice and Ben's sunnies. He was just happy to sit and stare at us all cuddled up against me as I pointed out the world outside the windows to him. Clucky?? Yeah .. But nah!!
So headache and all it was an experience we wouldn't have wanted to miss!
We popped in to the bus station in Marrakech a couple of days prior to work out how we go about it and to potentially pre-book a ticket. After being accosted at every turn by touts (who get a commission from the company they talk you into travelling with) we finally saw a window advertising our destination. This is easy we thought - but no cos this was the only window without a ticket seller at it! Then we went to the CTM counter (a reputable bus agency) but as they don't run buses to EJ the guy just pointed us back to the relevant window. Eventually we were able to work out that we ant prebook but have to turn up on the day of travel and get s seat on the next available bus.
So we arrive early to catch the 8:30am bus we'd been told about, run the entire gamut of touts again only to learn that no, only a 9:30am bus is being run today!
So we buy our tickets (a cheap 50dh each - abt $7) are shown to a bus, hand over our pack to an old man to load it in the hold and of course pay him for the privilege 😉 and we get on the bus to wait! And wait! And wait!
But we don't wait all bored - we have a regular stream of sales people board the bus selling tissue packets, jewellery and even shoes (memories of bus and train travel in Sri lanka and other parts of SE Asia!) Then a man gets on and starts holding forth passionately about something and Ben thought he was the driver giving us a safety demo! 😂 when he started handing something out Ben thought it was wet wipes as part of our travel experience!! But no he was selling some concoction that would make you feel so much better! Next up was someone selling a Vicks type cream which Ben bought!
Bus is half full so we keep making mini stops to pick up travellers on the way. We are the only 'tourists' on here so are a source of much entertainment and are given sidelong glances to full blown stares. There's no aircon but the roof vents are open and it's enough to cool us down when the bus is on the move.
There's a very long stop near a huge markets where the main commodity seems to be bales of hay. This sort of stop is where you would usually stretch your legs and buy something to eat and drink ... But it is Ramadan so that's not an option. By this stage both Ben and I are getting headaches - no breakfast and only surreptitious sips of water. Another sales man promising to turn your lungs from black and toxic to clean and pink passed around photos and does a full demo that was a bit like magic! Finally we load on a few market goers along with their produce - one woman even had a clutch of live chickens (what is the collective name for about 6 chooks who've been tied together in such a way that you can just grab the bit of rope and lift the whole lot up - not nice for that chooks but easy for the owner!). In they went into the hold with our bags!!
Hot and hungry though we were, the life and moments we were driving past were fascinating and it kept us entertained. The highlight was cuddling our neighbour's baby for about an hour. Anwar was an adorable 6 month old and was so chill - probably glad to be getting some attention and seemed fascinated by my voice and Ben's sunnies. He was just happy to sit and stare at us all cuddled up against me as I pointed out the world outside the windows to him. Clucky?? Yeah .. But nah!!
So headache and all it was an experience we wouldn't have wanted to miss!
Monday, June 27, 2016
Djemaa el-Fna - the beating heart of Marrakech - by Ben
There's hustle and bustle and then there's this place Djemaa el-Fna - aka "the Square" - 11 out of 10 for hustle and bustle.
Since at least the 17th century this has been the meeting place for Berbers from the mountains and the residents of the medina, expats and tourists from around the world - the heart and soul of Marrakesh.
Initially a place of execution where enemies heads were salted and hung up to dry on the city walls, these days it's more about the food and entertainment.
There is an order to the apparent chaos and you need to go there at least twice on your trip to Marrakesh. This is to allow for a cautious observation on your first visit.
See the mad antics of the snake charmers and monkey trainers. Watch them argue with tourists and fight amongst each other over their pitch. Even the over supply of orange juice sellers get passionate for your business at around $0.50 a cup.
The persuasive staff at the dozens and dozens of pop-up BBQ eateries will make you feel obliged to eat at every single one of them (or at least promise to come back "maybe tomorrow").
Check out some of the smaller mobile side stalls where you can get a delicious deep fried sardine in a bun with fried eggplant and capsicum, or a bowl of delicious snails cooked in thyme, chilli, lemon and orange. Check out the flamboyant henna tattoo artist who will smoothly charge you $24 for a tattoo that you can get for $3 in Southeast Asia.
TIP: If you don't want a monkey or snake on your shoulders don't shake hands with their handlers. They will put them on you within 2 seconds and charge you for the privilege!
Since at least the 17th century this has been the meeting place for Berbers from the mountains and the residents of the medina, expats and tourists from around the world - the heart and soul of Marrakesh.
Initially a place of execution where enemies heads were salted and hung up to dry on the city walls, these days it's more about the food and entertainment.
There is an order to the apparent chaos and you need to go there at least twice on your trip to Marrakesh. This is to allow for a cautious observation on your first visit.
See the mad antics of the snake charmers and monkey trainers. Watch them argue with tourists and fight amongst each other over their pitch. Even the over supply of orange juice sellers get passionate for your business at around $0.50 a cup.
The persuasive staff at the dozens and dozens of pop-up BBQ eateries will make you feel obliged to eat at every single one of them (or at least promise to come back "maybe tomorrow").
Check out some of the smaller mobile side stalls where you can get a delicious deep fried sardine in a bun with fried eggplant and capsicum, or a bowl of delicious snails cooked in thyme, chilli, lemon and orange. Check out the flamboyant henna tattoo artist who will smoothly charge you $24 for a tattoo that you can get for $3 in Southeast Asia.
TIP: If you don't want a monkey or snake on your shoulders don't shake hands with their handlers. They will put them on you within 2 seconds and charge you for the privilege!
Some of the stand-alone acrobatics are quite world class and all they do is ask for small change from the observers. Get there before sundown to watch the setting up of the food stalls as well as for good photo opportunities of the Koutoubia mosque minaret.
On your first day, spending some time on a roof terrace observing the spectacle is recommended, even if just for the photos. But make sure you go down and get amongst it.
As with anywhere in Morocco you have to be quite savvy with your bargaining skills, firm but reasonable. Don't be led astray and don't lead them astray.
Quite often I have noticed the vendors having heated arguments with each other. I would love to know what it is about sometimes.
At its peak around 9pm it is dark and crowded in the square and there is an ominous sense that anything can happen. Keep your wits about you and by the third visit you may even feel at one with this mad place. Nothing will fully prepare you for 'the Square' so take a deep breathe, go there and have your own experience!
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Shedding my modesty in Marrakech
Visiting a hammam in Marrakech is a little like going back in time to being a child again. Getting led by my hand, bathed, scrubbed and water poured over me, I kept being transported back to childhood - and any vestige of modesty was left firmly tethered at the door!
Even though I had some understanding of what to expect, it was difficult getting fully undressed under the watchful, yet seen-it-all-before gaze of the attendant in charge. Being handed a teeny tiny g-string weirdly gave me a modicum of dignity. Strangely enough, not being able to speak French or Arabic also gave me a veneer of anonymity.
By the time I joined a fellow hammam goer in the sauna I was trying to get my head around the unusual feeling of freedom and total abandon - gradually losing that feel of shyness or even shame that comes only with adulthood. She and I glanced at each other, yes I gave her a quick once-over (I'm not going to lie!) but it was more an acknowledgement of being in the same predicament. Lying in that small circular room with coloured glass in the dome shaped ceiling sending in rays of rainbow sunlight drawing pretty patterns on the floor, enveloped by steam I started to relax and enjoy this liberating new experience.
Half an hour of pore-opening sauna was followed by the much anticipated bathing and scrubbing. Led to a room of concrete slabs covered with rubber (nonslip!) mats you're first washed down with water poured over you from a ladle and washed thoroughly with black soap (an interesting slimey, almost soft soap local to Morocco, rich in minerals and meant to detoxify). Next came the exfoliating where your whole body is scrubbed firmly and thoroughly with a rough mitt of some sort. Dry dead old skin cells? All gone!! 😳
A quick rinse and then led by the hand to the massage tables (covered in white tarps! 😳 ) The reason for this soon became clear as my masseur drizzled argan oil and water all over it and when I lay down proceeded to drizzle oil all over my back. This was followed by one of the most relaxing massages I've had in my life!
However this too passed far too soon and I was led once more to the bathing room, gently pushed on to a stool (probably a good thing cos I was quite jelly-like by this time!). As I was soaped and washed and became a child again with memories of my grandmothers and aunties and mother 'bathing' me I realised how by leaving behind all self inflicted issues with my own body and judgement of other women's, putting aside any feelings of shame or embarrassment, kicking down those walls of what's 'normal' as portrayed by the media or those who seek to typecast women, I had been able to enjoy this wonderful experience and be just a woman amongst other women. No judgement, just a few giggles with the language confusion.
It is a shame how much of women's business has been forgotten or cloaked in what we call 'civilised' norms especially in western societies (tho this gdoes exist in 'upper class' eastern communities who've embraced 'modernity' at the expense of wonderfully enriching, culture specific female traditions). In many countries women still understand the power there is of gathering together, to just BE. To give to each other, to share wisdom and be there for each other, without partiality and judgement.
And just for 90 short minutes I was so glad to be reminded of this.
Even though I had some understanding of what to expect, it was difficult getting fully undressed under the watchful, yet seen-it-all-before gaze of the attendant in charge. Being handed a teeny tiny g-string weirdly gave me a modicum of dignity. Strangely enough, not being able to speak French or Arabic also gave me a veneer of anonymity.
By the time I joined a fellow hammam goer in the sauna I was trying to get my head around the unusual feeling of freedom and total abandon - gradually losing that feel of shyness or even shame that comes only with adulthood. She and I glanced at each other, yes I gave her a quick once-over (I'm not going to lie!) but it was more an acknowledgement of being in the same predicament. Lying in that small circular room with coloured glass in the dome shaped ceiling sending in rays of rainbow sunlight drawing pretty patterns on the floor, enveloped by steam I started to relax and enjoy this liberating new experience.
Half an hour of pore-opening sauna was followed by the much anticipated bathing and scrubbing. Led to a room of concrete slabs covered with rubber (nonslip!) mats you're first washed down with water poured over you from a ladle and washed thoroughly with black soap (an interesting slimey, almost soft soap local to Morocco, rich in minerals and meant to detoxify). Next came the exfoliating where your whole body is scrubbed firmly and thoroughly with a rough mitt of some sort. Dry dead old skin cells? All gone!! 😳
A quick rinse and then led by the hand to the massage tables (covered in white tarps! 😳 ) The reason for this soon became clear as my masseur drizzled argan oil and water all over it and when I lay down proceeded to drizzle oil all over my back. This was followed by one of the most relaxing massages I've had in my life!
However this too passed far too soon and I was led once more to the bathing room, gently pushed on to a stool (probably a good thing cos I was quite jelly-like by this time!). As I was soaped and washed and became a child again with memories of my grandmothers and aunties and mother 'bathing' me I realised how by leaving behind all self inflicted issues with my own body and judgement of other women's, putting aside any feelings of shame or embarrassment, kicking down those walls of what's 'normal' as portrayed by the media or those who seek to typecast women, I had been able to enjoy this wonderful experience and be just a woman amongst other women. No judgement, just a few giggles with the language confusion.
It is a shame how much of women's business has been forgotten or cloaked in what we call 'civilised' norms especially in western societies (tho this gdoes exist in 'upper class' eastern communities who've embraced 'modernity' at the expense of wonderfully enriching, culture specific female traditions). In many countries women still understand the power there is of gathering together, to just BE. To give to each other, to share wisdom and be there for each other, without partiality and judgement.
And just for 90 short minutes I was so glad to be reminded of this.
Magical Mystical Morocco
Salaam alaikum / Bonjour!
Morocco, and in particular Marrakech, has for almost 20 years held me in thrall and been at the top of my travel bucket list. It is the reason why our two week trip to France quickly got extended to a four month jaunt around the world! How could we go to France and not pop over to Spain (considering we've been learning the language for about a year at Milligan!) and then it's just a teeny hop step and jump across to Morocco from there ... And so it went! 😊
I've always had a mental checklist of what I just had to do if I ever got to Maroc. And today as I sit here at Djemaa el-Fna, sipping on sweet mint tea with that unique herbal scent wafting up my nose mixed with the smell of kebabs being fanned over flames by dozens of chefs at the over fifty food stalls, watching the antics of the various entertainers at this place and hearing a mix of French and Arabic and English and Spanish being yelled out to lure customers to food and market stalls, I realise that I have been ticking off these items on my mental list!
* Let yourself get lost - one does not have to TRY to get lost in Morocco's medinas and souqs with their maze of narrow winding streets where each intersection and offshoot distracts and invites you in with colour and bling and interesting daily life. However I'm always glad for Ben and his great sense of direction (and his gps when his sense of direction fails!) - me? I'd be lost forever!
* Enjoy a glass of mint tea in those tiny glasses - this has been such a refreshing drink and we've had copious amounts - offered free in some places and paid for in others - each tasting unique and yet the same.
* Check out Moroccan tiles / zellige used in old buildings - this has been well and truly crossed off the list with our visits to Hassan II mosque in Casablanca and the Ben Youssef Medersa and the Bahia Palace in Marrakech. Mere words cannot describe or photographs do justice to the beauty created by master craftsmen in these wonders of architecture and design.
* Take lots of photos - when there's a stunning photo opportunity around every corner (and sometimes every second!) it's a photographer's dream! I just wish I had the skill to do it all justice. Been using my phone a lot due to convenience however it seems it's difficult to take a 'bad' photo in Morocco!!
* Take some time out at one of the many gardens - some famous and most not. Escaping the chaos at some of these green oases has been a real highlight.
* Unwind at a Hammam - check out an upcoming post titled 'Shedding my modesty in Marrakesh'!
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
There were other things we've enjoyed that were not on my 'list'
* Drinking endless glasses of freshly squeezed Orange juice. We've frequented the Orange juice sellers wherever we find them, especially those at the Djamaa El-Fna after sunset - when it's over 40c and you're footsore and hot there's nothing quite like it. At .60c a glass drink up and keep those cold and flu viruses away I say!
* chatting to genuinely helpful (not wanting a tip!) locals when the language allows.
* loved the banter with the young, often very charming food stall PR men. I'm a sucker for a 'nice' face (in my world that means trustworthy looking!) especially on a young man so have stopped to chat to a few of these checking out where to visit 'next time'. "You look skinny" they say to Ben when we say we've already eaten. The other night one fella said to me "you look skinny" and when I laughed he patted me on the back and said "I wish"!! I think he meant to say "YOU wish"! Bwahaha 😂
* being taken for Morrocan. Have had some interesting conversations because of this and I'm again grateful that my face has never put me in a box because I've been taken for so many different nationalities over our years of travel.
* sharing laughs with locals at our expense because of our terrible French!
* we feel there's less tourists - maybe because of Ramadan - which is awesome for us.
* learning to slow down - with Ramadan people seem even more relaxed. But it's the "inshallah" (if God wills it) attitude that we've been trying to emulate in order to really be in the moment and stop worrying.
Some things have frustrated us or put a temporary damper on the moment -
* the constant trying to rip off a 'tourist' - we quickly learnt to be wary of the many offers of help "what you looking for?", "I will take you, it's on the way, you're welcome" as these offers of help usually end with "maybe you have a little present for me for my help". This can happen even if we're following the gps and the guy ('guide'!) was just Walking alongside or in front of us talking and we aren't responding! Sigh. Can get a bit tiring but the trick I've found is to smile and firmly say no thank you. Or "we are just going for a walk". Etc
* donkey cart drivers who think you want to take their photo and get aggro for no reason. Today I had one ride up towards me with his middle finger held aloft - it took me awhile to realise it was meant for me! I was totally unaware as my camera was zoomed onto a doorway (no people!) and since he was kind of in that direction he must have thought I was photographing him. It made me feel cross and a little yucky. I find there's young ones who are like this here and the tourist trade is to blame somewhat I suppose - one boy told me to F-off yesterday (he actually yelled out those words!) when I said no thank you (very politely I thoight!) to his offer of help. Some older stall holders nearby heard him, looked shocked and yelled at him. I didn't understand what they said but I felt supported and appreciated it.
* not having as much opportunity to just sit and watch the world go by. We usually do this at streetwise cafes but due to Ramadan we've needed to eat or drink out of the public eye as we are respecting those that are fasting. This means we re in a back room or rooftop terrace of a cafe - thought still enjoyable it's not the same as feeling immersed in the everyday life.
So we have been absorbing the chaos and becoming familiar with the rhythm of this country (to a small extent) and Morocco has been every single thing I hoped for and soooo much more!
Morocco, and in particular Marrakech, has for almost 20 years held me in thrall and been at the top of my travel bucket list. It is the reason why our two week trip to France quickly got extended to a four month jaunt around the world! How could we go to France and not pop over to Spain (considering we've been learning the language for about a year at Milligan!) and then it's just a teeny hop step and jump across to Morocco from there ... And so it went! 😊
I've always had a mental checklist of what I just had to do if I ever got to Maroc. And today as I sit here at Djemaa el-Fna, sipping on sweet mint tea with that unique herbal scent wafting up my nose mixed with the smell of kebabs being fanned over flames by dozens of chefs at the over fifty food stalls, watching the antics of the various entertainers at this place and hearing a mix of French and Arabic and English and Spanish being yelled out to lure customers to food and market stalls, I realise that I have been ticking off these items on my mental list!
* Let yourself get lost - one does not have to TRY to get lost in Morocco's medinas and souqs with their maze of narrow winding streets where each intersection and offshoot distracts and invites you in with colour and bling and interesting daily life. However I'm always glad for Ben and his great sense of direction (and his gps when his sense of direction fails!) - me? I'd be lost forever!
* Enjoy a glass of mint tea in those tiny glasses - this has been such a refreshing drink and we've had copious amounts - offered free in some places and paid for in others - each tasting unique and yet the same.
* Check out Moroccan tiles / zellige used in old buildings - this has been well and truly crossed off the list with our visits to Hassan II mosque in Casablanca and the Ben Youssef Medersa and the Bahia Palace in Marrakech. Mere words cannot describe or photographs do justice to the beauty created by master craftsmen in these wonders of architecture and design.
* Take lots of photos - when there's a stunning photo opportunity around every corner (and sometimes every second!) it's a photographer's dream! I just wish I had the skill to do it all justice. Been using my phone a lot due to convenience however it seems it's difficult to take a 'bad' photo in Morocco!!
* Take some time out at one of the many gardens - some famous and most not. Escaping the chaos at some of these green oases has been a real highlight.
* Unwind at a Hammam - check out an upcoming post titled 'Shedding my modesty in Marrakesh'!
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
There were other things we've enjoyed that were not on my 'list'
* Drinking endless glasses of freshly squeezed Orange juice. We've frequented the Orange juice sellers wherever we find them, especially those at the Djamaa El-Fna after sunset - when it's over 40c and you're footsore and hot there's nothing quite like it. At .60c a glass drink up and keep those cold and flu viruses away I say!
* chatting to genuinely helpful (not wanting a tip!) locals when the language allows.
* loved the banter with the young, often very charming food stall PR men. I'm a sucker for a 'nice' face (in my world that means trustworthy looking!) especially on a young man so have stopped to chat to a few of these checking out where to visit 'next time'. "You look skinny" they say to Ben when we say we've already eaten. The other night one fella said to me "you look skinny" and when I laughed he patted me on the back and said "I wish"!! I think he meant to say "YOU wish"! Bwahaha 😂
* being taken for Morrocan. Have had some interesting conversations because of this and I'm again grateful that my face has never put me in a box because I've been taken for so many different nationalities over our years of travel.
* sharing laughs with locals at our expense because of our terrible French!
* we feel there's less tourists - maybe because of Ramadan - which is awesome for us.
* learning to slow down - with Ramadan people seem even more relaxed. But it's the "inshallah" (if God wills it) attitude that we've been trying to emulate in order to really be in the moment and stop worrying.
Some things have frustrated us or put a temporary damper on the moment -
* the constant trying to rip off a 'tourist' - we quickly learnt to be wary of the many offers of help "what you looking for?", "I will take you, it's on the way, you're welcome" as these offers of help usually end with "maybe you have a little present for me for my help". This can happen even if we're following the gps and the guy ('guide'!) was just Walking alongside or in front of us talking and we aren't responding! Sigh. Can get a bit tiring but the trick I've found is to smile and firmly say no thank you. Or "we are just going for a walk". Etc
* donkey cart drivers who think you want to take their photo and get aggro for no reason. Today I had one ride up towards me with his middle finger held aloft - it took me awhile to realise it was meant for me! I was totally unaware as my camera was zoomed onto a doorway (no people!) and since he was kind of in that direction he must have thought I was photographing him. It made me feel cross and a little yucky. I find there's young ones who are like this here and the tourist trade is to blame somewhat I suppose - one boy told me to F-off yesterday (he actually yelled out those words!) when I said no thank you (very politely I thoight!) to his offer of help. Some older stall holders nearby heard him, looked shocked and yelled at him. I didn't understand what they said but I felt supported and appreciated it.
* not having as much opportunity to just sit and watch the world go by. We usually do this at streetwise cafes but due to Ramadan we've needed to eat or drink out of the public eye as we are respecting those that are fasting. This means we re in a back room or rooftop terrace of a cafe - thought still enjoyable it's not the same as feeling immersed in the everyday life.
So we have been absorbing the chaos and becoming familiar with the rhythm of this country (to a small extent) and Morocco has been every single thing I hoped for and soooo much more!
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Casablanca - "here's looking at you kid"
There's something to be said about refreshing one's memory of the movie Casablanca while one is on a plane heading to the place where it was (supposedly!) set!
We were expecting a "heaving metropolis - big brash and restless" (courtesy of the Lonely Planet guide) but instead we found a personable town - quiet in many places, children playing everywhere, young people wandering around in happy packs as they do everywhere in the world, old men playing endless rounds of cards at tables in quiet, empty restaurants and cafes. Ramadan fasting certainly changes the mood of a place - everyone moves a little slower and so it has been a delight to wander around getting the vibe of the place without too much hassle.
We landed in Casablanca after about 24 hours of travel, and she didn't disappoint. (Btw It was like landing in the Wheatbelt area of WA! Except for the occasional donkeys and flocks of goats!). Caught the train (half the price of a taxi!) to the city and then found our quaint little hotel which was about a kilometre from the station without getting too lost. It took longer to walk of course because I kept stopping to take photos!
Our hotel is on the edge of the medina and is very quaint with blue shutters. Our room has a tiny balcony and overlooks a little plaza where children played and locals frolicked to all hours of the night!! Though having to climb three flights of stairs, the view all the way to Casa Port is well worth the puff!
Off to go for a walk through the narrow maze like streets of the medina before brekkie. (Medina - the old walled section of a North African city/town) and try not to get lost and have yet another 'entrepreneur' take advantage of our 'tourist' look!! 😄
We spent hours wandering the highways (literally - crossing these is putting your life at risk!) and byways, up stately date palmed lined streets, admiring gorgeous old doorways, tiled walkways and the exquisite colonial architecture (though many are run down and past their glory days).
So we've been lost in the medina, almost run over crossing the road (look to the left first!), led astray by at least 3 nice men ("I only want to practice my English and give you good information" and next thing we find ourselves in yet another Berber carpet shop making excuses not to buy a rug! 😊), discussed local footy teams with a gorgeous young man just s bit older than Sanjay and taken for a local ("you look like you are born here"! My secret weapon for getting out of scrapes or when bargaining!).
We finally went to bed at about 11pm after not having much sleep in over 2 days (thank goodness for ear plugs and a quarter sleeping tablet) - no aircon, just our windows open to let in the cool air when it arrived eventually.
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
We were expecting a "heaving metropolis - big brash and restless" (courtesy of the Lonely Planet guide) but instead we found a personable town - quiet in many places, children playing everywhere, young people wandering around in happy packs as they do everywhere in the world, old men playing endless rounds of cards at tables in quiet, empty restaurants and cafes. Ramadan fasting certainly changes the mood of a place - everyone moves a little slower and so it has been a delight to wander around getting the vibe of the place without too much hassle.
We landed in Casablanca after about 24 hours of travel, and she didn't disappoint. (Btw It was like landing in the Wheatbelt area of WA! Except for the occasional donkeys and flocks of goats!). Caught the train (half the price of a taxi!) to the city and then found our quaint little hotel which was about a kilometre from the station without getting too lost. It took longer to walk of course because I kept stopping to take photos!
Our hotel is on the edge of the medina and is very quaint with blue shutters. Our room has a tiny balcony and overlooks a little plaza where children played and locals frolicked to all hours of the night!! Though having to climb three flights of stairs, the view all the way to Casa Port is well worth the puff!
Off to go for a walk through the narrow maze like streets of the medina before brekkie. (Medina - the old walled section of a North African city/town) and try not to get lost and have yet another 'entrepreneur' take advantage of our 'tourist' look!! 😄
We spent hours wandering the highways (literally - crossing these is putting your life at risk!) and byways, up stately date palmed lined streets, admiring gorgeous old doorways, tiled walkways and the exquisite colonial architecture (though many are run down and past their glory days).
So we've been lost in the medina, almost run over crossing the road (look to the left first!), led astray by at least 3 nice men ("I only want to practice my English and give you good information" and next thing we find ourselves in yet another Berber carpet shop making excuses not to buy a rug! 😊), discussed local footy teams with a gorgeous young man just s bit older than Sanjay and taken for a local ("you look like you are born here"! My secret weapon for getting out of scrapes or when bargaining!).
We finally went to bed at about 11pm after not having much sleep in over 2 days (thank goodness for ear plugs and a quarter sleeping tablet) - no aircon, just our windows open to let in the cool air when it arrived eventually.
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820
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