Djemaa el-Fna - the beating heart of Marrakech - by Ben

There's  hustle and bustle and then there's this place Djemaa el-Fna - aka "the Square" - 11 out of 10 for hustle and bustle. 
Since at least the 17th century this has been the meeting place for Berbers from the mountains and the residents of the medina, expats and tourists from around the world - the heart and soul of Marrakesh. 
Initially a place of execution where enemies heads were salted and hung up to dry on the city walls, these days it's more about the food and entertainment. 
There is an order to the apparent chaos and you need to go there at least twice on your trip to Marrakesh. This is to allow for a cautious observation on your first visit.  
See the mad antics of the snake charmers and monkey trainers. Watch them argue with tourists and fight amongst each other over their pitch. Even the over supply of orange juice sellers get passionate for your business at around $0.50 a cup. 
The persuasive staff at the dozens and dozens of pop-up BBQ eateries will make you feel obliged to eat at every single one of them (or at least promise to come back "maybe tomorrow"). 
Check out some of the smaller mobile side stalls where you can get a delicious deep fried sardine in a bun with fried eggplant and capsicum, or a bowl of delicious snails cooked in thyme, chilli, lemon and orange. Check out the flamboyant henna tattoo artist who will  smoothly charge you $24 for a tattoo that you can get for $3 in Southeast Asia. 
TIP: If you don't want a monkey or snake on your shoulders don't shake hands with their handlers. They will put them on you within 2 seconds and charge you for the privilege!

Some of the stand-alone  acrobatics are quite world class and all they do is ask for small change from the observers. Get there before sundown to watch the setting up of the food stalls as well as for good photo opportunities of the Koutoubia mosque minaret. 

On your first day, spending some time on a roof terrace observing the spectacle is recommended, even if just for the photos. But make sure you go down and get amongst it.  

As with anywhere in Morocco you have to be quite savvy with your bargaining skills, firm but reasonable. Don't be led astray and don't lead them astray.

Quite often I have noticed the vendors having heated arguments with each other. I would love to know what it is about sometimes.



 

At its peak around 9pm it is dark and crowded in the square and there is an ominous sense that anything can happen. Keep your wits about you and by the third visit you may even feel at one with this mad place. Nothing will fully prepare you for 'the Square' so take a deep breathe, go there and have your own experience!
Photos on Instagram - @ebonyivory91 and @ben8820