WhereRtheWilliams?: The Highs of Vang Vieng

This little town has, for its backdrop, the very dramatic limestone cliffs at the base of which the Nam Song river gracefully flows.

These cliffs are honeycombed with caves and are perfect for spelunking or rock climbing while the river invites kayaking and tubing.

Over the last decade, VV unfortunately became known as the party destination of SE Asia, with sections of the Nam Song being turned into raves/amusement parks with loud DJ led and alcohol/drug fuelled parties blasting all night. Hearing of the 'happy' shakes laced with marijuana, mushroom or opium put us off visiting here. Then a few months ago we were told that the party bars along the river were shut down and the extremely dangerous flying foxes, Tarzan ropes and dive boards (the cause of many a tourist's death) had been torn down to impress visiting dignitaries from an ASEAN delegation.

Tourism, the lifeblood of this town, drastically reduced in response. Kayaking down the river yesterday it was sad to see the ghost town look of the bars and restaurants along the river and we felt for the owners who had invested so much in these. But for us, travelling with young kids and watching the antics of the very few drunk yelling tubers was enough to be thankful we weren't being exposed to the usual bacchanalia.

There's so much we've loved here that I thought I'd jot down some highlights:

• waking up each morning to the most stunning view of mountains we've ha since Sapa in Vietnam.

• paying only $14.50 per night for the room with such magnificent views!

• scrambling up a rocky path to a dark, slippery 'tham' (cave), turning on our headlamps and seeing the stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites.

• being allowed to actually touch the stalactites and play 'drums' on the hollow ones.

• walking through villages of mountain tribes and seeing the happy children, the cute baby piglets and dozens of baby chickens. Delightful.

• passing rice paddies on our trek that sit at the foot of these immense cliffs. The peacefulness of this scene is hard to describe.

• hearing the tinkling of cow bells when all around is silence.

• having dinner with Wrex and his mum and talking about the things that truly matter.

• sitting in a tube (a tractor inner tube) dragging ourselves along a water course running through a tunnel on a fixed rope. Great fun!

• kayaking for about 3 hours on the Nam Song over abt 7 kilometres. Going over little rapids with the constantly beautiful scenery of the looming cliffs beside us. Just magic!

• discovering an amazing bakery with fresh croissants and pastries and cakes and coffee most like at home.

Seeing this amazing view, we knew we were going to love Vang Vieng

We watched this craziness just about every day from the hostel balcony.. so much fun! The whole community got involved!

The kids help hold down the balloon :)

often it got a bit stressful worrying about the kids buried under all that canvas!

Up, up and away in a beautiful balloon

Keeping cool!

This little gorgeousness in his too large thongs was a delight!

on one of our walks, exploring the town.

all 7 kids - hard to ever get them to stand still and look at the camera at the same time!

sitting on the 'floor' having a most delicious dinner!

La la land - this would have been a popular haunt when VV was filled with young (and not so young) tourists after a drug and alcohol fueled good time!