Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Ancient Thebes (Luxor) - the capital of the kings

We found Luxor ("Luxurious Luxor" as the boys referred to it before we got there!) to be a city of contrasts. The modern and ever present tourist industry sitting quite comfortably alongside the ancient ruins - 2 very old temples (Karnak and Luxor temples) within walking distance from our hotel, not to mention the 1000s of amazing tombs of pharoahs, queens, nobles and those of even the workmen who built these tombs, many funerary temples etc. found in the West Bank (with new sites and sculptures etc still being found by archeologists).

We got to Luxor tired, cranky and desperately needing a shower after 2 days and nights on a felucca to find that our hotel had been closed down the previous day due to electrical problems. The staff were lovely and put us up in a different hotel (a large soulless place - the kind we detest and stay away from!) paying for the difference, but due to public works happening in the town there was no water in the pipes!!! So no shower and no major toileting until later that evening! The hotel was shocking too - lackadaisical untrained staff, sporadic cleaning until I kicked up on day 2. After that we had fresh towels made into fancy swan sculptures on our beds, extra toilet paper etc.!! :o)

We're tombed, templed and Pharoah-ed out now and feel we have a very basic understanding of the ancient Egyptian culture. (side note: that Ramses II was quite an egocentric but he did leave some amazingly beautiful structures for posterity!).

On our 2nd night while about to enter Luxor Temple (lit up beautifully at night, giving a totally different perspective to it) we were approached by Attiya Mohamed, a guide who offered to show us around the temple. We hadn't used a guide until then and his quote was quite reasonable so we took him up on his offer.

It was absolutely fascinating having him explain things we'd only wondered at so far. Hje was also able to relate alot of the ancient history to modern life which kept it interesting for the boys. We were moved to ask him how much he would charge for a day tour to the West Bank as it's quite complicated to do without a car and taxis charge a bomb.

So the next day we had a very informative tour through the Valley of the Kings, the Nobles tombs, the workmen's village and tombs and a couple of the funerary temples.

Attiya was very happy to also discuss politics and religion ( Islam vs Judaism vs Christianity) and was very interested in our lives and world. So the breaks for tea were as interesting as the tour itself. He invited us to visit his home and meet his wife and 3 yr old son for dinner that night but we had to wake up early to go fly in a hot air balloon so unfortunately had to decline.

A family that sleeps together ... sigh the pitfalls of budget travel! ;)

A caleche - just for the fun of it









The hot air balloon ride was phenomenal - incomparable with anything we've ever done. The absolute silence up there with only the bursts of sound from the flame was incredible. Floating over the West Bank with a bird's eye view of the temples and tombs we'd visited the previous day made us feel like Amun-Ra (the ancient Egyptian god of gods)!

The balloon ride almost didn't eventuate. the morning before we had woken up early to be picked up at 5:15am, put on a boat, given coffee/tea and a breakfast bar and taken over to the other bank, then drivento the site. We were concerned as it was unseasonably windy - and sure enough after sitting aorund for about an hour we were told that since the wind wasn't lessening they were forced to cancel the flight!! Thankfully unlike most of the others in our party who were departing later that day or early the next, we were able to book for the next day. So worth it! Cost us about $75AUD each - less than half what you pay in Australia.

If it wasn't for those amazing experiences we wouldn't have like Luxor much.


heading to our balloon ride by boat

our handsome captain

balloons being prepared in the early dawn


up up and away - see our shadows waving!

if one is to take a hot air balloon it should be with the magnificent views such as this - glad we saved up this experience to glide over the Valley of the Kings in this way! BREATHTAKING!

Queen Hatshepsut's temple - really puts size into perspective!

verdant fields

the real size of those ancient statues are revealed better


So now in Dahab... an adventure getting here... but will explain once I've rested my fingers and filled my tummy!!


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