Aswan

Pretty little Aswan is said to have a slower pace than most other tourist destinations in Egypt. If it wasn't for the cruiseboats full of tourists it would be the perfect place to linger! But we've found that these cashed-up, fat-cat (mainly European) tourists have made it difficult for us budget travellers by jacking up the prices on everything (no bargaining skills!!) whether it's the price of scarves in the souq or a jaunt in a felucca. So every transaction is a huge chore with the starting price bordering on the ridiculous.

Even the public ferry which costs 1LE (20c) they quote ridiculous prices like 25LE per person. So frustrating! BUT we have found we have a secret weapon... ME! The Nubian people who are the indigenous people in this area are fascinated by my dark skin, often mistaking me for one of them. I have often had the comment that because "we are the same I won't cheat you". This has come in handy on more than one occasion... of course we still pay more... but not that much more....

They are also fascinated by the boys and mistake Sanjay for being Egyptian. All this makes for interesting conversations along the way.

Aswan sits on a wide, stunningly beautiful part of the Nile. Dramatic black boulders, palm studded islands, colourful Nubian villages all stand out against a backdrop of vast desert. The clear looking water (tho you wouldn't want to swim in it!) is dotted with langurous feluccas and colourful motor boats... a constant hive of activity... and of course the ugly big cruise ships, spewing out their diesel into the water!

This area is big on spices (some used for very interesting maladies!), peanuts and dried hibiscus (which makes a delicious drink - cold or hot).

This morning we went on a tour - 280km south (40km north of the Sudanese border... were thinking of you Sims!!) - to Abu Simbel to see the colossal temple of Ramses II.

Carved out of the mountain in 1244 BC this temple had to be rescued in recent years and relocated brick by brick (large boulders more like!) on higher ground when the nile was dammed and the temple would have been flooded and ended up under the water line.

This feat in itself (set up higher but facing in the same direction - almost exactly the same way) makes it a phenomenon but being inside it and seeing the stunning pillars and detailed reliefs on the walls telling the most interesting stories was worth the 3am start this morning!! We could have spent an entire day in there but had a stupid minivan to catch back! hate tours!! but this cant be done by oneself anymore as they have become strict about travelling there in a police convoy.

Many countries (UNESCO) put in big money and expertise to salvage this temple and the smaller one near it - the Temple of Nefertari/Hathor - but the Egyptians are the ones that rake in the money today. Ben estimates that they'd easily make $10,000 a day on the busloads of tourists who visit the site.

In total contrast, yesterday we went to the Tombs of the Nobles on the west bank of Aswan and had it virtually to ourselves! Too many steps to climb for the cruise boat crowd!? (no I don't like them!) That was fascinating and an awesome view from up there of Aswan and the Nile. We also visited Kitchener's Island which is a botanic garden and it was interesting to see something similar but on a much smaller scale to Peredeniya Gardens in Sri Lanka... all set up by Lord Kitchener when he was given the island in the 1890s.

I am so tempted to shop big here but am panicking about the major lack of space (and weight we'll need to carry on our backs from train stations etc...).

The food is great as always... tho' different from Cairo and all very yummy. We have been loving it all. We've stuck to places where the locals eat which we've always found in our past travels to be the safest option. The best meals, as always, have been eaten at busy roadside stalls costing less than $10 for the whole family!! Koshari, yummy vegetable soups, kofta (sanjay's favourite), grilled chicken liver (my favourite) etc.... lots and lots of bread and pita bread with yummy dips. Also black coffee and tea wiht heaps of sugar!! Corn grilled over open coals by the roadside, big pieces of sweet potato baked in a semiopen oven on a cart and peanuts and dried dates have been our nibbles. The bakeries have the best croissants and various pastries. The fruit has been disappointing - mainly apples, oranges, mandarins - but we have eaten alot of guavas.

We are off on our felucca trip tomorrow.. my timing was off in my FB post sorry. Can't wait.. tho' not for the toiletting on the shores of the Nile!! hmmmm.. camping with the Helms comes to mind!! :o)

Will write again when we reach Luxor in about 3 days!